Evan Williams 12 Year Review

In-Depth Review

It’s a strange world we live in when the same bourbon can sell overseas for $40 and in the US – right next to the distillery that makes it – the same bourbon can be sold for $150. Has the bourbon craze in the US really reached these astronomical levels? Heaven Hill certainly thinks so, pricing it’s 12-year-old Evan Williams expression at more than 3X the price overseas. And while there are a lot of reasons this could have happened, the fact remains – it’s rare to find any well-aged bourbon at approachable price points anymore in the US. Enter the Japanese market – a wonderful place where due to historical contracts, incredible bourbon can be found at even more incredible prices. Such is the case with the red label Evan Williams, a 12-year-old expression that comes in at 101 proof.  

Evan Williams 12 year is a product that until recently you couldn’t get in the US - no matter the price point. It was only sold overseas, and specifically in Japan. But a few years ago, Heaven Hill decided to start selling it in the Evan Williams Experience in Louisville; albeit for a significant premium to what it sells for overseas. But for that extra money, Heaven Hill would at least throw in some wax over its screw top. So is this worth the $150 price point? Or is this truly just a $40 bourbon with a nice wax top? Let’s dive in and find out.

Age: 12 Years

ABV: 50.5%

Cask: New charred oak

MSRP: $40 in Japan, $150 at the Distillery

Distillery Name: Heaven Hill

Review Date: 1/29/23

 

Color: Dark Caramel

Nose: Right after pouring, notes of cinnamon sticks, toasted crème brulee, and fresh cut lumber fill the room. It’s amazing how quickly it envelopes its surroundings. Sweet notes of candied orange, honeydew melon, and toffee also appear. This is a fabulous nose – not overpowering but with an elegant character about it. 

Palate: On the first taste, you’re immediately greeted with dark, robust flavors of cocoa, antique wood, demerara sugar, and berries. It has a great silky, mouthfeel that coats the tongue nicely. After a few sips, more flavors of creamy raspberries, hazelnut vanilla syrup, honey, and nutmeg come forward and integrate nicely with a strong backbone of aged oak.

Finish: Medium length finish of bright, sugared coated candy snacks, mixed with wood polish, a touch of rye spice that ends on a brighter and lively note than the palate. Some wood still shows up, but its balanced nicely by the sweetness and never goes dry. There is a touch of spice but at 101 proof, it remains full bodied without an outright intensity. An easy and enjoyable finish on an unabashedly approachable whiskey.  

Final Thoughts: This Evan Williams 12 year may be as close to approachable bourbon perfection as I’ve come to. If you are tired of distilleries cranking their best products up to cask strength, this Evan Williams 12 Year 101 proof might be your perfect combination of approachability, flavors, and balance. It’s an easy drinker that punches way above its $40 (in Japan) price point. And at that price, it may simply be the best value in all of bourbon.

Unfortunately, when you factor in the price of actually traveling to Japan, the ROI becomes less clear. Its closest competition is the Wild Turkey 12 year 101 proof that also is an overseas exclusive. But while the Wild Turkey is spicier and a bit funkier at times, this Evan Williams is truly a greatest hits album of darker, sweeter, classic bourbon notes. The 12 years of age has done a great job softening the edges and letting the oak gently shine. I do give the edge slightly to the Wild Turkey, but only for a more unique flavor profile and personality. But if I was looking for a really high-quality bourbon, to enjoy with a group of friends across a whiskey spectrum, this would be my choice. Is it worth $150? That’s harder to say, but even at that price point, I would be happy to have at least one bottle on my shelf at all times.

Score: 96

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