Kirkland Signature Bottled-in-Bond Bourbon
In-Depth Review
Costco has become legendary in the whiskey world for curating excellent spirits at their aggressive member pricing. And while they may boast some great relationships with distributors that help them source great products for their shelves, they haven’t yet cracked the code for their own label of bourbon. Their Kirkland Signature vodka, scotch, and tequila are all excellent – but Kirkland Bourbon has always fallen flat. In previous iterations, Kirkland Bourbon has been sourced from Jim Beam or Dickel distilleries but sadly has never lived up to those brand’s reputations. Kirkland bourbon always felt like it was an afterthought, less than the sum of its parts, and never a go-to product for bourbon junkies.
But in 2021, Costco once again changed where they are sourcing their whiskey. Earlier this year they announced they have settled on Barton 1792 distillery to carry the Kirkland bourbon flag moving forward. Barton distillery is owned by Sazerac brand (the same folks who own Buffalo Trace), and is touted as “the oldest full-operating distillery” in Bardstown – the home bourbon in Kentucky. Surprisingly, Costco also announced that Barton will not be providing only one type of expression but instead will be helping bottle three versions of Kirkland Signature Bourbon. These include a small batch product, a bottled-in-bond product, and a single barrel that will clock in at 120 proof. And with each bottle being 1L (instead of 750ml), and at classic Kirkland pricing, there is a lot to love here on paper.
Today, I will dive into the Kirkland Signature Bottled-in-Bond expression, a 100-proof version that is at least 4 years old, distilled all in the same season, and aged in a federally bonded warehouse. Barton makes their own version of a bottled-in-bond for their 1792 brand, but at a significantly higher price point. So are these the bargain basement leftovers from 1792? Or is this the best new value in bourbon? Let’s dive in to find out.
Age: At Least 4 Years
ABV: 50%
Cask: Virgin Charred Oak
MSRP: $25
Distillery Name: Barton (1792)
Review Date: 8/29/21
Color: Chestnut Gold
Nose: The nose starts off with strong notes of banana, powdered sugar, and caramel. There’s a slight metallic ting here, that I previously experienced on the last batch of 1792 small batch I tried. Young grains and a bready quality are also present but mix well with the banana forward nature of the nose. Altogether, the nose reminds me a lot of a summertime banana cream pie.
Palate: Bam. The banana cream pie hits hard again on the palate, with a fruity, dense, sweet character that comes off as a strong flavor profile but isn’t immediately complex. There are strong wood notes accented by vanilla and shortbread. But by the mid-palate the strong flavors seem to fade away and turn more towards artificial banana flavors like Laffy Taffy and yellow Runts. Luckily for me, I love both of those candies, so this was a welcome twist. The mouthfeel is good with a heavy and viscous body that punches above its weight. The 100 proof means the heat is always there, but never overpowering. It’s not soft and subtle, but it plays well with the candy sweetness that dominate the flavors.
Finish: Medium to long finish. While the candied banana remains, the vanilla and cream give way to more wood and barrel spice. Never entirely spicy, Kirkland Bottled-in-Bond does crank up more clove and molasses flavors on the finish.
Final Thoughts: It’s rare that you find a new budget bourbon that can exceed your expectations in almost every way. Truthfully, I didn’t enjoy the previous iterations of Kirkland’s bourbon (from either Beam or Dickel) so I was unsure if this latest sourcing change would break the spell. After my initial pour, I can easily say that this is the best Kirkland bourbon I’ve had. While some may argue that this is a one note experience, it does that note very well (better than Old Tub for example) and would be great as a sipper or as a backbone to some great cocktails. Kirkland Signature Bottled-in-Bond is an excellent budget bourbon that falls further towards the sweet end of the spectrum than Wild Turkey 101, and is reminiscent of Old Forester’s signature fruity banana character. If you love a sweet bourbon – I highly recommend grabbing a bottle to try.
