Kirkland Signature Single Barrel Bourbon Review
In Depth Review
Not everyone can buy liquor at Costco. Some get stuck with only sanctioned liquor stores, or even worse, live in a state with state-run stores. But for those lucky enough to enjoy buying whiskey at your local club store, you may have noticed that Costco has once again changed their sourcing for their Kirkland branded bourbon.
Early in 2021, Costco announced that they would begin sourcing Kentucky bourbon for their Kirkland brand from 1792 distillery (also known as Barton). Part of the Sazerac company, (known more famously for their other Kentucky distillery – Buffalo Trace) 1792 is well-known in the industry for making an excellent core range of whiskies right in the heart of Bardstown, Kentucky. When Costco announced the change, they also stated that there would eventually be three expressions made: a small batch bourbon, bottled-in-bond bourbon, and a single barrel 120 proof bourbon. And while I had the chance to review the BIB version earlier this year, the single barrel had eluded me – until now.
When I finally stumbled upon this bottle at the Costco in West LA, I initially couldn’t believe my luck. I looked around and wondered how could people be walking by a bottle of 120 proof, non-chill filtered, single barrel Kentucky bourbon for under $30? Why isn’t this sold out? Are people scared of the Kirkland name? For months I had seen it pop up at stores in other states. But now I finally had my chance to check it out for myself. So I quickly grabbed a bottle (almost grabbed two) and decided to jump in and find out if this is truly the Costco bargain of the year.
Age: Non-Age Stated
ABV: 60%
Cask: Virgin Oak
MSRP: $29.99
Distillery Name: 1792 (Barton)
Review Date: 12/6/21
Color: Medium Caramel
Nose: The nose starts with waves of fruit. Sweet, juicy apples paired with refreshing floral notes. It’s quite vibrant at first but settles down with time in the glass. There’s evidence of the high proof in the nose, but it’s not overwhelming. As the whiskey settles in the glass, more brown sugar and toffee come forward, bringing out some rich, caramel apple vibes. There’s also a dollop of oak and wood shavings, with a touch dark tobacco leaf that compliments the fruitiness well.
Palate: Once I get to sipping, the palate takes a hard left turn from the fruity nose and dives straight into dominating oak and a heavy nuttiness with a flash of youthful grain. The sweetness of the nose is replaced by big notes of barrel char and wood tannins that create a drier palate than I expected. It’s actually so dry that it’s what I imagine licking a wood stave would feel like. Even at 120 proof, the heat is restrained and welcoming, but even the heat struggles to come through against that dominating oak. The mouthfeel is good, with an oily consistency that lingers through the finish.
Finish: Long finish that continues the oak dominattion. A touch more of barrel spice, and a lonely vanilla note lies somewhere in the background.
Final Thoughts: This was a tale of two whiskies for me. The nose promised a fruit driven experience (akin to the BIB version I reviewed earlier this year) only to take a dramatic turn towards an oak dominated palate. The BIB Kirkland bourbon I experienced earlier this year was straight banana Laffy Taffy while this was so woody and dry that I subconsciously found myself reaching for a glass of water. The Kirkland BIB is the clear winner for me. But if you love wood and oak notes, this may be your holy grail of affordable bourbons.
It’s also important to remember that this experience may be specific to the single barrel my bottle was pulled from. Chances are the bottle at your local Costco may be a significantly different experience due to variations from barrel to barrel. So while I didn’t love this Kirkland Single Barrel, I do love what it represents. At under $30 (in SoCal) for a non-chill filtered, 120 proof, single barrel – it’s hard to argue this is still a buy all day. What other distillery is offering all of this at under $30? Jim Beam’s Old Grand Dad 114 gets close, but even that’s become increasingly difficult to find. So while this Kirkland Single Barrel isn’t quite the revelation the Kirkland Bottled-in-Bond expression was, this is still an extraordinary whiskey that I will continue to pick up any time I see it.
