Old Ezra 12 Year Review (Japan only)
In-Depth Review
When thinking of bourbon that’s specific to the Japanese market, you’d be forgiven if you didn’t have Old Ezra 12 at the top of your list. Instead, special edition Blanton’s, the 12 year age stated Wild Turkeys, or red label Evan Williams take most of the spotlight. And while those are fantastic bottles – and relatively easy to find – they aren’t the only bourbons in Japan with high age statements and good proofs.
Enter Old Ezra 12 year, a bottle that despite a label design back in 2016, still looks like it’s being manufactured in the 1970s. Today, the Old Ezra brand is owned by Luxco (who were purchased themselves by MGP in 2021). I believe this is the oldest Old Ezra product made today, previous iterationas were sourced directly from Heaven Hill (I can’t confirm where they are sourcing from for this updated label version). This expression comes in with a strong 12 year age statement, 101 proof, charcoal filtering, and a price point under $100. So, compared to the 12 year products from Evan Williams and Wild Turkey, how does this Old Ezra compare? Let’s dive in and find out!
*And yes, you read that right. Old Ezra goes through the same charcoal filtering process as Jack Daniel’s and is still considered bourbon. Do with that information what you will….
Age: 12 Years
ABV: 50.5%
Cask: New American Oak
MSRP: $85
Distillery Name: Lux Row
Review Date: 2/15/24
Color: Rich Caramel
Nose: Wow. The nose starts off with a deep, rich, intense caramel mixed with toasted wood chips, orange chocolate, pecans, saltwater taffy, and custard tart. Theren are big antique wood and wood oil notes coming through giving the nose a musty, funky character that leads me to think there might be significantly older stocks thrown into the blend. But all that wood leads to a sharpness at the back of the nose which can be off-putting if you’re looking for a sweet, gentler experience. Feels reminiscent of some vintage Heaven Hill stocks I’ve had in the past.
Palate: On the first sip, your tongue is hit hard by a wave of fresh cut oak. There’s wood, wood, and some more wood. The classic bourbon notes of caramel and vanilla are completely overpowered, leading to a slight bitterness from the oak being present throughout. It isn’t bad per se – but I was expecting a bit more sweetness to pop through. Instead, there are notes of medicinal cherry, fresh leather, spent tobacco and musty fruit. There’s a muddy tannic quality that I can’t shake – like the whisky may have rested a bit too long in some of these barrels. All that age has made for a pleasant mouthfeel however - so not all is lost.
Finish: Medium length finish with a burst of heat and gentle cinnamon, maple syrup, and another wave of lingering tannic bitterness that clings to the side of the mouth. Long lasting, but not incredibly rewarding.
Final Thoughts: Old Ezra 12 year feels like it’s designed for an oak forward palate that’s looking for a bourbon without a sweet and gentle side. Even at 101 proof, its heavy oak presence can make it feel a bit spicier than you expect. The nose is by far the best part, with a rich and wonderful experience let down by a bitterness that remains present throughout. Old Ezra 12 never achieves balance and leaves me wondering why it’s significantly more expensive than comparably aged bottles. If you don’t love being hit over your head with oak, I’d recommend spending a bit less and grabbing Wild Turkey 12 year 101 proof, or a lot less money and get the Evan William 12 year. Those bottles are just as complex, and a lot easier to enjoy.
