2016 Yamazaki Sherry Cask Review
In-Depth Review
In 2015, Suntory’s Yamazaki Sherry Cask was lauded the “World Whisky of the Year” by Jim Murray, writer of the annual Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible. He called it “near indescribable genius” and gave it a remarkable 97.5 score, setting the whisky world on fire. Jim Murray showed the world that incredible, high value whiskies don’t come only from Scotland – and could instead be found in some of the burgeoning whisky cultures all around the world. Many considered this a “wake up call” for the Scotch industry.
What made the Yamazaki Sherry Cask expression so unique was that the exclusive use of ex-Olorosso sherry casks for its maturation. Unlike other Yamazaki or Hakushu expressions that use ex-Bourbon, Mizunara, and sherry casks, this expression forwent the ex-Bourbon and Mizunara casks and focused solely on using casks from Jerez, Spain that previously held Oloroso sherry.
What Jim Murray reviewed was the 2013 Yamazaki Sherry Cask – a bottle that now commands upwards of $10,000 in some places. I, on the other hand, had the chance to try the follow up that debuted in 2016. The 2016 Yamazaki Sherry Cask vintage uses the same lot of 100 casks as the 2013 version, only with an additional two years of aging, and the addition of some older sherry casks that are rumored to be over 25 years old.
This particular sample was provided as part of a tasting flight by K&L Wine Merchants, Suntory, and Republique in Los Angeles earlier this month.
Age: Non-age stated but rumored 12-15 years old and include whiskies up to 25 years old
ABV: 48%
Cask: Sherry casks
MSRP: $300 but found now for around $4000
Distillery Name: Suntory’s Yamazaki Distillery
Review Date: 12/11/20
Color: Deep amber color that owes its depth to the exclusive use of Sherry casks in this expression.
Nose: If I sat and smelled this whisky for the rest of my life – I’d die happy. There’s just so much going on here including the raisins and nuttiness typically associated with sherry cask matured whiskies, but this goes much deeper than that. It’s walking through an old family home, the sweetness of your mom’s blackberry jam, and the smell of your favorite leather jacket. There’s sweet thick syrup, fig pudding, and fruits that have been stewing for hours. There is chocolate, plumbs and grapes. If there was such thing as a fruity brownie, this is what it’d smell like. Then come more of the exotic woods and spiced jam that eventually give way to old leather-bound books and antique wood furniture.
Truly an exceptional aroma, this may be the best whisky I’ve ever nosed.
Palate: This is an intense whisky, with concentrated, delectable flavors that seem to dance across your palate. It begins with sun-dried fruits, chocolate covered nuts, and molasses. Then stone fruits and marzipan appear, with a flash of butterscotch. Underneath the sweetness, there’s a layer of big, showstopping spices including clove, ginger, and nutmeg that help round out the palate. This is Christmas cake in a glass. The mouthfeel is superb with thick oily texture that makes the whisky feel even bigger than it is (hard to imagine but true). The 48% is almost inconsequential as the flavors achieve so much without any noticeable heat. The ABV seems to be there only to gently remind you that you’re enjoying a whisky after all.
Adding water brings out more incense, spice, and tones down some of the sweetness. But do yourself a favor and drink this neat. The water only pares down some of the incredible intensity.
Finish: Long and lingering finish with more raisins and nuts, but with a slight cocktail bitter note as well. The finish is more savory than the palate. The finish is like walking through a Spanish meat market, with lovely umami tones and exotic woods. Even the finish is rich, meaning each sip can take minutes to enjoy.
Final Thoughts: This is likely the greatest whisky I’ve ever encountered. What Suntory was able to create here is truly deserving of being lauded as one of the best in the world. Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2016 delivers an incredible mixture of sweet and savory notes, making this a rollercoaster ride from start to finish. It accomplishes incredible balance, with all of the flavors working in perfect harmony together.
This is the kind of whisky I’d drink alone, with no distractions, in a dimly lit room. That way, I could fully engross myself in what I was experiencing. This whisky deserves that type of respect. It demands your complete attention.
Generally, I find spending 4 figures on a bottle of whisky completely superfluous and – frankly - ridiculous. Why spend that money when there are excellent bottles for under $100, let along $1,000? There is a level of diminishing returns oh these elixirs, and I find most of these extraordinarily expensive bottles are priced to fill a niche and aren’t necessarily correlated to quality.
But after just one ounce of this Yamazaki Sherry Cask, I am beginning to question that notion. Can owning a bottle of this make your life substantively better? Logic says no. But as I write this I’m already giving my local loan shark a call.
