Whistlepig 15 Year Rye Review
In-Depth Review
Welcome to the top. WhistlePig’s 15 Year Vermont Oak Estate Rye expression is the last stop on my WhistlePig adventure – at least for now. As some of you know, last year WhistlePig released a number of small 50ml sample packs of their core range of 10, 12, and 15 year whiskies. I suppose it was to try and move beyond just a core enthusiast base and try and make these accessible to a larger mainstream audience at a much lower price point. I was lucky enough to grab a set of the “Piglets” and have been tasting through them – with my experience culminating in the prized 15 year expression that is not only the oldest, but is by far the most expensive in the Whistlepig core range. With an MSRP of around $200, this 100% rye whiskey is an ode to the past, harkening back to a time where rye whiskey dominated the US and Canada markets, blending farm to bottle craft techniques with extra aged products that aim to cement a truly premium place for rye whisky in the marketplace. In the words of WhistlePig themselves…
“The Vermont Estate Oak Rye is a highly matured rye whiskey aged for 15 years, and finished in custom charred barrels made from Vermont White Oak trees logged on The WhistlePig’s Farm. Due to harsh winters and a shorter growing season, these trees possess a denser wood grain, imparting a nuanced and distinct flavor into the rye. The Vermont Oak Rye is the next step in WhistlePig’s mission to become fully farm-to-bottle, with the barrels coming from wood grown on the farm.”
This 15 year expression clocks in at a healthy 92 proof, and is aged in both ex-bourbon barrels before being transferred to the aforementioned Vermont white oak for the remaining aging.
Age: 15 Years
ABV: 46%
Cask: Ex-Bourbon Barrels and Vermont White Oak
MSRP: $200
Distillery Name: WhistlePig Distillery
Review Date: 8/20/21
Color: Light Caramel
Nose: The nose immediately comes off as perfumy, sweet, silky, with beautiful fresh cut flowers and tropical fruits. Light, buttery pastry appear with hints of angel food cake. Then as it settles in the glass there’s a dollop of rich heavy toffee that mixes with the fruity flavors and reminds me of a Madagascar dark chocolate. If I didn’t know any better, my first impression would be that this is finished – similar to WhistlePig’s 12 year expression. Slowly some darker notes arrive – cooked spiced fruits, heavy oak, and a touch of rye spice. It all comes together very well, creating an elegant and beautiful nose that rewards you the longer you spend with it.
Palate: Sweet, gentle, and full of flavor, WhistlePig 15 introduces itself with notes of oak, vanilla, soft rye spice (can vanilla be spicy?), lemon peel, and barrel char. Similar to the nose, it slowly evolves towards the back of the palate with more juicy red fruits, dark chocolate, and more creamy vanilla. There is a small undercurrent of herbal and vegetal notes but that is fairly restrained and never impedes on the complexity of the palate. The mouthfeel is good, but I can’t help but wonder what this would be like at 100+ proof (it’s worth noting that WhistlePig does have a single barrel program for the 15 year which does come in at barrel proof which I have yet to try).
Finish: The rye spice comes through the most on the finish – where you start to feel that 100% rye mashbill coming to life. Medium length finish with a dry wood character that overtakes the creamy vanilla of the palate. Surprisingly, the finish feels brighter than the palate, finishing off an elegant whisky on a high note.
Final Thoughts: There is something special about old rye whiskies. While young rye can sometimes have spicy, untamed personas, ryes that make it over 10 years old can take on this deep, beautiful character that is sweeter and more complex than many older bourbons. This WhistlePig 15 is a great example of an elegant, old school style rye that rewards a patient drinker. While the 12 year version can feel a bit over the top with its complex finishing process, this 15 year version feels more elegantly crafted and ultimately more rewarding. I enjoy this bottle a lot. Sadly, the score is hampered by its high price. At 92 proof, it struggles to justify the $200 cost. Is this a great bottle? Absolutely. I’m happy with my short time with it but I won’t be running out to grab a full bottle. Regardless – I can easily say that this is the best WhistlePig in the core lineup. If money is no object – this should be on your bar.
